The guide
Fabrics
Cloth is half the garment. This is a general guide to help you choose before you get your hands on it at the branch.
How to choose
Four questions before you choose.
Where will you wear it?
A long working day calls for something comfortable and easy to look after. An occasion can carry a finer cloth that asks for more care.
In what weather?
In the heat, look for light cloth that lets air through. In the cold, something heavier with more body.
How should it hang?
Heavy cloth falls straight, light cloth moves with you, firm cloth holds its shape. Hold it up and let it drop to see.
How much care will you give it?
Cotton and linen need more ironing, blends need less, and wool wants special attention.
Materials
How do materials differ?
Five broad families. There are many trade names, but most lead back to one of these.
Cotton
Soft against the skin and breathes well.
- Suits
- Shalwar qameez, shirts, summer wear
- Watch for
- Creases, and may shrink a little at first wash
Linen
Light and cool, with the yarn visible in the cloth.
- Suits
- Serious heat and a relaxed look
- Watch for
- Creases easily; that's its nature
Cotton-polyester blend
Often sold as wash and wear. Cotton's comfort with polyester's staying power.
- Suits
- Daily wear and frequent washing
- Watch for
- Breathes less than pure cotton
Smooth thobe cloths
A sleek, firm weave of synthetic or blended fibres, common for thobes.
- Suits
- Thobes, for a clean fall and a neat look
- Watch for
- Choose the weight with care; light ones can show through
Wool and wool blends
Firm and warm, and it holds a garment's shape.
- Suits
- Coats, waistcoats, occasions and cold weather
- Watch for
- Usually needs dry cleaning
These patterns are drawings of the weave, not photos of cloth in stock.
At a glance
Side by side.
| Material | Feel | Breathability | Creasing | Care | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Soft | High | Medium to high | Wash and iron | Shalwar qameez, shirts |
| Linen | Slightly rough, cool | Very high | High | Gentle wash, iron damp | Hot weather |
| Cotton-polyester blend | Smooth, practical | Medium | Low | Easy | Daily wear |
| Smooth thobe cloths | Sleek | Medium | Low | Easy to moderate | Thobes |
| Wool and wool blends | Firm, warm | Medium | Low | Usually dry clean | Coats, waistcoats |
A general comparison. Every cloth differs with its weight and weave, so ask us about the one in your hands.
By garment
What suits your piece?
Shalwar qameez
It's a long, loose outfit, so it needs comfortable cloth that moves with you.
- Heat and home: light cotton
- Long days: an easy-care blend
- Occasions: a cloth with richer weight and feel
Thobe
It's seen all at once, so weight and fall matter more than anything.
- Choose a weight that doesn't show through, especially in white
- Firm cloth keeps the line straight
- Try the collar and cuff between your fingers first
Shirt
It sits close to the skin, so feel comes first.
- Soft cotton for comfort
- A blend if you want less ironing
- A pinstripe adds formality with no effort
Coat
It needs cloth that holds the shoulder and doesn't break with movement.
- Wool or a wool blend
- Twill and herringbone hide daily wear well
- Think about the weather you'll wear it in
Waistcoat
A small, visible piece that can take a bolder cloth.
- Match the coat for a set
- Or pick a different cloth as its own accent
- It doesn't need heavy weight
Weave and pattern
Material is one thing, weave is another.
The same material can be woven in several ways, and that changes the look and the fall.
Plain weave
One thread over, one under. Simple, light and breathable.
Twill
Fine diagonal lines, giving a stronger cloth with a softer fall.
Herringbone
A twill that reverses direction, with a classic look for coats.
Pinstripe
Fine lengthwise lines that add height and formality.
Drawings only. See the real weave at the branch.
General care
Look after it and it stays with you.
General advice. If a cloth comes with its own instructions, follow those first.
Washing
Keep darks and lights apart, and use a gentle wash in water that isn't hot, especially the first time.
Ironing
Set the heat for the material. Cotton and linen take more, blends less, and linen is easiest slightly damp.
Storing
Hang coats and waistcoats on a wide hanger, and keep clothes clean and dry somewhere with good air.
Wool
Don't wring it or use hot water. Dry cleaning is the usual choice.
Before you decide
What's available differs from branch to branch.
This is a general guide, not a list of what's in stock. Real availability depends on each branch's stock, and you'll get a price when you choose your cloth. Message us before you visit if you're after something specific, and you can always bring your own.
Some of the names we work with:
- Toyobo
- Kurabo
- GN Tex
- Grace
- Tetrex
- Luckytex
These names are trademarks of their owners, and listing them doesn't mean they're always available.
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